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The Paris long weekend that finally got it right

Paris· France

Golden hour, as advertised
Golden hour, as advertised
Would return?
Yes
Worth the price?
Yes
Best for
Date night · Celebration

Paris trips fail from ambition. Our first three did. The fourth worked because we cut the list to almost nothing.

We based in the 11th near Maison Verte, walked one neighborhood each morning — Marais, Saint-Germain, Canal Saint-Martin — and gave afternoons to nothing in particular. One museum, booked for opening. One golden-hour walk to the Trocadéro for the Eiffel Tower doing its thing, which no amount of cynicism survives.

Dinners were bistros booked two days out, nothing famous, all better than the famous ones we'd queued for on earlier trips.

Four nights, two people, about $2,800 including a very nice hotel. The version of Paris that makes you plan the next one on the flight home.

Overview

Four nights based in the 11th, one neighborhood a morning, afternoons unplanned.

What stood out

Golden hour from the Trocadéro — the cliché is the cliché because it works.

Where to stay

The 11th: residential, great food, fifteen minutes from everything by Métro.

What to eat

Weekday set lunches; neighborhood bistros booked two days ahead beat famous rooms booked two months ahead.

Things to do

Musée d'Orsay at opening, Marais on foot, Canal Saint-Martin at dusk.

Best type of traveler

Couples who have done the checklist trip and want the city instead.

Recommended trip length

Four nights

Approximate budget

≈$700/night all-in for two, hotel included

Photos

The d'Orsay before the crowds
The d'Orsay before the crowds

This is one traveler's perspective.

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