Solo at the hearth counter — the best seat in the house

Everyone fights for dining-room tables here, but the four counter seats facing the hearth are the sleeper move — and on a Tuesday, they had a same-day cancellation.

From the counter the meal becomes theater. You watch the cooks pull the cornbread at exactly the right shade of dark, see your duck rested and carved, and end up in a running conversation with whoever is plating. The kitchen sent out an extra bite of smoked oyster 'because you were curious.' That's the whole personality of the place in one gesture.

Same food, same price, half the wait, better show. If you're one person and flexible, check for counter seats before you resign yourself to the waitlist.